All the Rivers Run in Spring

This morning after breakfast and check out, we’ll head across the road to the station and board a local rail service to Castlemaine aboard one of Victoria’s VLocity trains. These comfortable diesel rail car sets are becoming the backbone of long distance travel in Victoria, replacing the older style diesel hauled trains with traditional carriages. 

Upon arrival at the charming Castlemaine station, we’ll embark on a return diesel-hauled heritage rail tour of the Victorian Goldfields Railway along the old branch line, with a stop in Maldon, an iconic gold rush renowned for its well-preserved 19th-century streetscape from the gold rush era. Your first-class ticket entitles you to ride in the wonderful Parlor Cars with access to the bar for some refreshments along the way.

Maldon’s history is deeply tied to the Victorian Gold Rush. Gold was discovered in December 1853 and by early 1854, an estimated 18,000 miners had arrived, though only about 1,000 held mining licenses! The town peaked in the 1860s with a population of around 3,341 and an additional 5,000–6,000 miners in the surrounding diggings, and went on to become one of Victoria’s richest quartz-mining centres, with over 70 gold-bearing reefs, including the notably rich Nuggetty Mine, yielding an extraordinary 187 grams of gold per ton. The town’s preserved gold-era architecture and minimal modern development led to its National Trust designation as Australia’s very first ‘Notable Town’.

Upon arrival in Maldon, there’ll be plenty of time to immerse yourself in this well preserved town, starting with the Maldon Railway Station, opened in 1884, before wandering into Main Street and High Street for a real historic experience. You might want to seek out the Grand Hotel (1888); the old post office, constructed in 1870 and the childhood home of novelist Henry Handel Richardson; and the magnificent bluestone mansion, Lauriston House, built in 1866 for mining magnate Robert Dent Oswald – a fine example of gold rush architecture.

After some lunch at leisure, we’ll regroup back at the railway station to board our train for the journey back to Castlemaine to transfer to our private coach and travel to Bendigo, the famous town made rich by gold. 

After checking in to our hotel and settling into our rooms we’ll transfer the short distance to enjoy dinner together at Alium Dining, a highly regarded modern Australian restaurant housed in the heritage-listed former Royal Bank building, dating back to 1908.

Overnight: Mercure Schaller, Bendigo (B, D)

Enjoy a lazy breakfast and explore more of Bendigo on your own before checking out this morning – there’s the Bendigo Art Gallery, Tram Museum and the renowned Bendigo Pottery. 

Later in the morning we’ll board our private coach and head north for the border town of Echuca. Upon arrival, we’ll enjoy lunch at a local pub. 

After lunch, there’ll be free time to explore this historic town and the Port of Echuca Discovery Centre – a living monument to the 1870s when it was the third largest port in Australia, after Sydney and Melbourne. Home of the 1983 TV series ‘All the Rivers Run’, starring Sigrid Thornton and John Waters, the port will provide you with a glimpse of what life was like in the late 1800s.

Then, it’s all aboard your very own paddle steamer as our adventure takes to the water on the majestic PS Emmylou – one of the most recognisable and iconic Paddle Steamers in Australia. Named after the American country singer Emmylou Harris, PS Emmylou played a starring role as PS Providence in ‘All the Rivers Run’. Powered by a beautifully restored 1906 Marshall and Sons steam engine, Emmylou is now the only wood fired Paddle Steamer operating anywhere in the world.

As Emmylou pulls away from Echuca, relax and enjoy an afternoon Devonshire tea while taking in the stunning sights and sounds of the river, chat with the skipper and learn about the history of the vessel, or simply unwind in your private cabin.

As the sun begins to set, Happy Hour starts, and the drinks will be flowing in the saloon before we arrive at Layfield Lane for a grand dinner on the riverbank – a classic Australian BBQ, lit by candles and stars – setting the perfect mood for an evening of casual conversation and live entertainment around the campfire.

Overnight: PS Emmylou (B, L, D)

After breakfast we’ll embark on a captivating half-day land and river tour, beginning with a visit to the fascinating Great Aussie Beer Shed and Heritage Farm Museum, where you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the charm of our agricultural past and smile at the collection of beer memorabilia of over 20,000 beer cans, tap tops, barrels, and signs, collected over 45 years by owner Neil Thomas. Displaying late 1800s farming equipment, including iconic Furphy farm water carts, a blacksmith workshop, shearing shed, milking shed, and saddlery, the Heritage Farm Museum offers a glimpse into the agricultural heritage of the Murray River region, highlighting the tools and practices of early settlers during the pioneering days.

Next, get ready to be enchanted as you join the Murray Explorer, for a fully guided Expedition cruise along the upper Murray River. Prepare to be awestruck by the natural wonders that surround you, from breathtaking landscapes to a rich array of wildlife – keep your eyes peeled for White Faced Herons, and you may even find a King Fisher. The captain’s great commentary will keep you informed and entertained throughout.

Later, we’ll visit St Anne’s Winery for a tasting of their fabulous table and fortified wines before returning to Emmylou for lunch on board as we continue downriver towards Deep Creek Marina. 

In the evening, unwind with a fascinating documentary featuring archival footage of the paddle steamers and communities of the Murray River. Dinner tonight is on board.

Overnight: PS Emmylou (B, L, D)

Today, Emmylou will take you on a full-day cruise bound for Torrumbarry Weir. After crossing into New South Wales, we’ll pause mid-morning at the renowned Perricoota Station and join our skipper for an immersive walking tour of this 19th-century pastoral estate. Originally established in 1843 by James Maiden, Perricoota Station began as a 48,562-hectare sheep and cattle grazing property during the early colonial era, reflecting the fluctuating fortunes of Australia’s rural industry. The imposing double-storeyed, nine-bedroom brick homestead, built in the 1860s, served as the headquarters for James Maiden during the gold rush and wool industry boom, and supported diverse operations over time, including merino sheep, Cobb & Co horse transport, shorthorn cattle, and citrus orchards. Its history mirrors Echuca’s role as a bustling 19th-century port, with the Murray River facilitating trade and transport.

Back on board, we’ll continue our voyage towards Torrumbarry Weir. Upon reaching the weir’s shores, we’ll enjoy a guided walk, traversing the structure and delving into its history and significance. There’ll be time to explore the Interpretive Centre, a treasure trove of knowledge illuminating the intricate details of the Murray Darling Basin and the ingenious weir and lock system, which traces its origins back to 1923.

As the day gracefully transitions into evening, something special awaits – a delicious final dinner hosted by your Skipper and Engineer against the backdrop of the setting sun casting its golden hues over the tranquil weir.

Overnight: PS Emmylou (B, L, D)

This morning, early risers can enjoy a riverside stroll before breakfast and saying goodbye to our unforgettable river journey on the PS Emmylou. We’ll head back to Echuca on our private coach to cross the Murray into the vast farming lands and river red gum forest of the southern Riverina in southwestern New South Wales.

Our first stop today will be in the Riverina town of Deniliquin at a private museum. The Depot Deniliquin has grown around the historic vehicle and memorabilia collections of Neville and Debbie Purtill and the Purtill family. We’ll enjoy a light lunch then take the opportunity to view their private collection of vehicles and their stories including cars and buses that will take you back to another era or road motoring. Included is a spectacular collection of models, homewares and garagenalia that have all been contributed by local businesses, trades people, historians, community groups, volunteers and staff to bring alive stories of life at home and on the road in days past.

We’ll continue on to Hay, our final destination today, and our home for the next two nights. Watch as the farming and grazing lands give way to the iconic saltbush, big skies and far off horizons of the spectacular Hay Plains, one of the flattest places in the Southern Hemisphere, with a minimal elevation difference of only 17 metres across the entire area of approximately 20,000 square kilometres.

Before reaching Hay, we’ll cross our third river – the Murrumbidgee, a major tributary of the Murray River, and one of Australia’s most significant waterways, forming part of the Murray-Darling Basin, Australia’s largest river system. 

After checking into our motel, we’ll have some time to freshen up before heading out to a special spot to enjoy sundowners while we watch the sun set over the plains, then back to the local pub near our motel to relax over dinner.

Overnight: Saltbush Motor Inn (or similar), Hay (B, L, D)

This morning after an ‘order anything you want’ breakfast at a local cafe, we’ll join our experienced guide and local resident Lou Gardam, for a full day exploring this interesting town – Lou’s extensive knowledge of Hay will thoroughly enhance your experiences today.

Hay’s history is deeply tied to the Murrumbidgee River and the surrounding plains. The traditional land of the Nari Nari, Wiradjuri, and Yitha Yitha peoples, their cultural presence is evident in the river corridors and wetlands, with sites reflecting their long stewardship. European exploration began with Charles Sturt’s 1829–30 expedition along the Murrumbidgee and by the mid-19th century, Hay thrived as a pastoral hub, driven by wool production and river trade via paddle steamers – the town’s first bridge over the Murrumbidgee, built in 1872 with a turntable for steamer passage and opened by one other than Henry Parkes, was a key development. Hay was famous for other, less agricultural things too – it served as the episcopal seat of the Anglican Diocese of Riverina from 1884 to 1953, and played a major role during World War II, hosting three internment camps, notably for the “Dunera Boys” – Jewish refugees and POWs from Germany, Austria, Italy, and Japan.

Our first stop is the historic Hay Gaol. Built in 1878, this former prison (later a maternity hospital and girls’ institute) houses artifacts like Australia’s oldest known bark canoe, antique windmills, and WWII memorabilia, and offers a glimpse into 19th-century justice and local history. It’s then back across the river to one of the most unusual and historic houses in New South Wales – Bishops Lodge, a remarkable iron-clad residence innovatively designed to withstand Hay’s heat. Constructed in 1889, the lodge was home to three bishops before becoming a hostel for boys, and passing into private hands in 1946 before the local Council purchased it in 1985. Enjoy exploring the house before a relaxing morning tea in the 19th century gardens.

Back on our coach, we’ll pause at the inspiring Hay Water Tower Art, designed as a lasting tribute to the many servicemen and women that served in World War II, before visiting the Dunera Museum, located in two restored railway carriages at the impressive Hay Railway Station. This Museum recounts the WWII internment of over 6,000 POWs between 1940 and 1946, including the “Dunera Boys” – 1,984 German Jews and other refugees from Nazi-occupied Europe, who were the first internees of the British Government WWII policy, arriving in Hay in September 1940. It’s a poignant look at a lesser-known chapter of Australian history.

Today’s lunch is befitting of our grand surroundings – a private affair on the original station platform.  

After lunch, our last stop for the day is the outstanding ‘Shear Outback’. For anyone that has grown up in, or visited sheep country, the vision of a corrugated iron woolshed shimmering in the haze of the Aussie sun is iconic. Here’s your chance to learn about the colourful characters, shearers, shedhands, sheep and dogs who work at ‘getting the wool’ off. You’ll explore The Australian Shearers’ Hall of Fame, the Shear Outback Exhibition, and the historic Murray Downs Woolshed – complete with a live shearing demonstration. 

After returning to our motel in the late afternoon, your evening is at leisure. The local pub is just up the street or the local ‘Bowlo’ is an easy 10 minute walk away for those wanting to have some dinner.

Overnight: Saltbush Motor Inn (or similar), Hay (B, L)

After breakfast and checkout, we’ll jump back on our private coach and head further west along the Sturt Highway, roughly following the Murrumbidgee across the western edges of the Hay Plains. As we roll along you will take in the spectacular sight of seeing nothing but saltbush. 

After passing through Balranald we’ll arrive at the tiny nearby outpost of Penarie and the Homebush Hotel, our venue for lunch today. A hotel has stood on this location on the road to Ivanhoe since 1878 and is the perfect setting for a pub lunch with the 360° views of the surrounding plains.

After lunch we’ll return to Balranald and visit the historic fascinating Visitors Information Centre. Far more than a spot to stop and get directions, you’ll be provided with access to two fascinating buildings, both of which happen to be next door.

Built around 1887, the ‘Lock Up’ included a Police Station and House attached. The most infamous person held in the lock up was Ronald Ryan; the last man hanged in Australia in 1967. Ryan started his life of petty crime here in Balranald at the age of 16 years when he robbed the local bank. A man by the name of Kelly was also held in the old Balranald Lock Up. According to stories, he would quite often climb the walls of the exercise yard to buy an ice-cream and would climb over the wall again with the ice-cream in hand and proceed to eat.

The Malcolm Building Museum is a perfect place to step back in time and view the collection of historic photographs and local artefacts from the historic ‘Malcolm and Beaty’ Stock and Station Agency. Many other treasures from the past are on show in the large display room. 

It’s then back to the NSW / Victoria border and the small town of Tooleybuc. Here, we’ll drop in for a drink at the Art Deco ‘Country Club Hotel’ before transferring the short distance to Swan Hill to check in to our motel.

Tonight we’ll gather for a jolly farewell dinner at a local restaurant to exchange a few laughs and share the memories we’ve made.

Overnight: Comfort Inn Lady Augusta, Swan Hill (B, L, D)

This morning after breakfast and check out we rejoin our coach for a morning of local touring. First up is the Flying Boat Museum at Lake Boga that showcases some of the rarest memorabilia associated with World War II. The most notable part of the collection is the spectacular Catalina PBY5 Flying Boat. With over 500 items on display, interactive displays and audio presentations which tell the stories of Australia’s historical military history, machinery, weapons, armoury, photographs, newspaper clippings, uniforms, engines, components and artefacts from the region – this is an truly amazing museum.

Well then return to Swan Hill to visit the amazing Pioneer Settlement. Set on three hectares, Pioneer Settlement is Australia’s first open-air museum, showcasing early Australian rural life from 1830-1930 through historic buildings, machinery, and demonstrations, set on the banks of the Little Murray River with activities like horse-drawn carriage rides, vintage car tours and live blacksmithing. You’ll have the opportunity to explore replica Mallee town buildings, historic homesteads like Towaninnie and vintage vehicles, experiencing a bygone era with shops and a unique Kaiser-Panorama theatre. Our lunch today is conveniently in the cafe on sight – our last chance to enjoy a meal while reflecting on our adventure by rail, river and road.

After lunch we’ll return to the station to join a comfortable local V/Line service back to Mellbourne. Our tour ends when we arrive back at Southern Cross Station around 6pm and bid farewell until we meet each other again somewhere else down the line.

(B)