All the Rivers Run

This morning after breakfast and check out, we’ll head across the road to the station and board a local V/Line service to Castlemaine aboard one of Victoria’s VLocity trains. These comfortable diesel rail car sets are becoming the backbone of long distance travel in Victoria, replacing the older style diesel hauled trains with traditional carriages. In a little under 1.5 hours we will have arrived at the charming Castlemaine Station. 

Here, we’ll embark on a return steam-hauled tour of the Victorian Goldfields Railway along the old branch line, with a stop in Maldon, an iconic gold rush renowned for its well-preserved 19th-century streetscape from the gold rush era. Your first-class ticket entitles you to ride in the wonderful Parlor Cars with access to the bar for some refreshments along the way.   

Maldon’s history is deeply tied to the Victorian Gold Rush. Gold was discovered in December 1853 and by early 1854, an estimated 18,000 miners had arrived, though only about 1,000 held mining licenses! The town peaked in the 1860s with a population of around 3,341 and an additional 5,000–6,000 miners in the surrounding diggings, and went on to become one of Victoria’s richest quartz-mining centres, with over 70 gold-bearing reefs, including the notably rich Nuggetty Mine, which yielded an extraordinary 187 grams of gold per ton. However, as quartz mining required deeper extraction and some mines ran dry, the population declined to 1,600 by 1891. The town’s preserved gold-era architecture and minimal modern development led to its National Trust designation as Australia’s very first ‘Notable Town’. 

Upon arrival in Maldon, there’ll be plenty of time to immerse yourself in this well preserved town, starting with the Maldon Railway Station, opened in 1884 before wandering into Main Street and High Street for a real historic experience. You might want to seek out the Grand Hotel (1888); the old post office, constructed in 1870 and the childhood home of novelist Henry Handel Richardson; and the magnificent bluestone mansion, Lauriston House, built in 1866 for mining magnate Robert Dent Oswald – a fine example of gold rush architecture.

After some lunch at leisure, we’ll regroup back at the railway station to board our train for the return journey. On arrival back in Castlemaine, we’ll be met by our private coach and travel to Bendigo, the famous town made rich by gold.

Our home tonight, the Shamrock, is a grand landmark of the city and has been a significant part of Bendigo’s social and cultural landscape since 1854. Originally opening as The Exchange Hotel during the Victorian gold rush, it was renamed “The Shamrock” in 1855 and was subsequently completely reconstructed in 1897 in the Victorian Regency style, designed by Phillip Kennedy, an understudy of architect William Vahland.

After settling into our rooms we will walk the short distance to enjoy dinner together at Alium Dining, a highly regarded modern Australian restaurant housed in the heritage-listed former Royal Bank building, dating back to 1908.

Overnight: Hotel Shamrock, Bendigo (B, D)

Enjoy a lazy breakfast and explore more of Bendigo on your own before checking out this morning – there’s the Bendigo Art Gallery, Tram Museum and the renowned Bendigo Pottery – or take the opportunity to laze away the morning at a local cafe. The choice is yours.  Later in the morning we’ll board our private coach and head north for the border town of Echuca. 

Upon arrival, we’ll enjoy lunch in a picturesque setting on the Murray River at Port 53 Restaurant housed in the highly regarded Radcliffe’s event venue. A modern fusion eatery specialising in French Creole and Cajun-inspired cuisine, Port 53 has a focus on local and seasonal ingredients, showcasing what the region has to offer, providing true local food, boutique wines, and craft beers. 

After lunch, there’ll be free time to explore this historic town and the Port of Echuca Discovery Centre – a living monument to the 1870s when it was the third largest port in Australia, after Sydney and Melbourne. Home of the 1983 TV series ‘All the Rivers Run’, starring Sigrid Thornton and John Waters, the port will provide you with a glimpse of what life was like in the late 1800s. 

Then, it’s all aboard your very own paddle steamer as our adventure takes to the water on the majestic PS Emmylou – one of the most recognisable and iconic Paddle Steamers in Australia. Named after the American country singer Emmylou Harris, PS Emmylou played a starring role as PS Providence in ‘All the Rivers Run’. Powered by a beautifully restored 1906 Marshall and Sons steam engine, Emmylou is now the only wood fired Paddle Steamer operating anywhere in the world.

As Emmylou pulls away from Echuca, relax and enjoy an afternoon Devonshire tea while taking in the stunning sights and sounds of the river, chat with the skipper and learn about the history of the vessel, or simply unwind in your private cabin. 

As the sun begins to set, Happy Hour starts, and the drinks will be flowing in the saloon before we arrive at Layfield Lane for a grand dinner on the riverbank – a classic Australian BBQ, lit by candles and stars – setting the perfect mood for an evening of casual conversation and live entertainment around the campfire.

Overnight: PS Emmylou, Echuca (B, L, D)

After a delightful breakfast, we’ll embark on a captivating half-day land and river tour, beginning with a visit to the fascinating Great Aussie Beer Shed and Heritage Farm Museum, where you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the charm of our agricultural past and smile at the collection of beer memorabilia of over 20,000 beer cans, tap tops, barrels, and signs, collected over 45 years by owner Neil Thomas. Displaying late 1800s farming equipment, including iconic Furphy farm water carts, a blacksmith workshop, shearing shed, milking shed, and saddlery, the Heritage Farm Museum offers a glimpse into the agricultural heritage of the Murray River region, highlighting the tools and practices of early settlers during the pioneering days. 

Next, get ready to be enchanted as you join the Murray Explorer, for a fully guided Expedition cruise along the upper Murray River. Prepare to be awestruck by the natural wonders that surround you, from breathtaking landscapes to a rich array of wildlife – keep your eyes peeled for White Faced Herons, and you may even find a King Fisher. The captain’s great commentary will keep you informed and entertained throughout.

Later, we’ll visit St Anne’s Winery for a tasting of their fabulous table and fortified wines before returning to Emmylou for lunch on board as we continue downriver towards Deep Creek Marina. In the evening, unwind with a fascinating documentary featuring archival footage of the paddle steamers and communities of the Murray River.

Dinner tonight is on board.

Overnight: PS Emmylou, Echuca (B, L, D)

Today, Emmylou will take you on a full-day cruise bound for Torrumbarry Weir, promising an enriching journey filled with exploration and scenic delights. After crossing into New South Wales, we’ll pause mid-morning at the renowned Perricoota Station and join our skipper for an immersive walking tour of this 19th-century pastoral estate, originally established in 1843 by James Maiden. Perricoota Station began as a 48,562-hectare sheep and cattle grazing property during the early colonial era, reflecting the fluctuating fortunes of Australia’s rural industry. The imposing double-storeyed, nine-bedroom brick homestead, built in the 1860s, served as the headquarters for James Maiden during the gold rush and wool industry boom, and supported diverse operations over time, including merino sheep, Cobb & Co horse transport, shorthorn cattle, and citrus orchards. Its history mirrors Echuca’s role as a bustling 19th-century port, with the Murray River facilitating trade and transport. 

Back on board, we’ll continue our voyage towards Torrumbarry Weir. Upon reaching the weir’s shores, we’ll enjoy a guided walk, traversing the structure and delving into its history and significance. There’ll be time to explore the Interpretive Centre, a treasure trove of knowledge illuminating the intricate details of the Murray Darling Basin and the ingenious weir and lock system, which traces its origins back to 1923. 

As the day gracefully transitions into evening, something special awaits – a delicious final dinner hosted by your Skipper and Engineer against the backdrop of the setting sun casting its golden hues over the tranquil weir. 

Overnight: PS Emmylou, Echuca (B, L, D)

This morning, early risers can enjoy a riverside stroll before breakfast and saying goodbye to our unforgettable river journey on the PS Emmylou. Our private coach will collect us and take us back into Echuca so we can cross the Murray and go back across the border to the vast farming lands and river red gum forest of the southern Riverina in southwestern New South Wales.

Our lunch stop will be in Deniliquin at the Edward River Hotel, a traditional country pub established in 1876 and one of the oldest pubs in town – the front facade is Heritage listed. The Edward River, also called the Kolety, and a branch of the Murray River, rises at Picnic Point east of Mathoura, flows north to Deniliquin, and then west through Moulamein re-entering the Murray at Wakool Junction, near Kyalite.

After a hearty lunch our coach will continue north toward Hay, our final destination today and our home for the next two nights. Watch as the farming and grazing lands give way to the iconic saltbush, big skies and far off horizons of the spectacular Hay Plains, one of the flattest places in the Southern Hemisphere, with a minimal elevation difference of only 17 meters across the entire area. While the exact size of the plains is not always clearly defined, it’s generally understood to encompass an area of approximately 20,000 square kilometres.

Before reaching Hay, we’ll cross our third river – the Murrumbidgee, a major tributary of the Murray River, and one of Australia’s most significant waterways, forming part of the Murray-Darling Basin, Australia’s largest river system. 

Located in far western NSW, Hay is a small town with a long and fascinating history which we’ll explore during our stay. After checking into our motel, we’ll have some time to freshen up before heading out to a special spot to enjoy sundowners while we watch the sun set over the plains, then back to the local pub near our motel to relax over dinner. 

Overnight: Saltbush Motor Inn, Hay (B, L, D)

This morning after a breakfast of your choice at a local cafe near our motel, we’ll join our experienced guide and local resident Lou Gardam, for a full day exploring this interesting town – Lou’s extensive knowledge of Hay will thoroughly enhance your experiences today. 

Hay’s history is deeply tied to the Murrumbidgee River and the surrounding plains, which were traditionally inhabited by the Nari Nari, Wiradjuri, and Yitha Yitha peoples. Their cultural presence is evident in the river corridors and wetlands, with sites reflecting their long stewardship. European exploration began with Charles Sturt’s 1829–30 expedition along the Murrumbidgee, followed by squatters occupying river frontages by 1839. Originally called Lang’s Crossing Place, it was gazetted as Hay in 1859 after John Hay, a local squatter and politician. By the mid-19th century, Hay thrived as a pastoral hub, driven by wool production and river trade via paddle steamers. The town’s first bridge over the Murrumbidgee, built in 1872 with a turntable for steamer passage, was a key development, opened in 1874 by Colonial Secretary Henry Parkes. Hay served as the episcopal seat of the Anglican Diocese of Riverina from 1884 to 1953, with Bishop’s Lodge, designed by John Sulman and built in 1888, showcasing innovative architecture to combat the outback climate. During World War II, Hay hosted three internment camps, notably for the “Dunera Boys” – Jewish refugees and POWs from Germany, Austria, Italy, and Japan. 

Our first stop is the historic Hay Gaol. Built in 1878, this former prison (later a maternity hospital and girls’ institute) houses artifacts like Australia’s oldest known bark canoe, antique windmills, and WWII memorabilia, and offers a glimpse into 19th-century justice and local history.

Next we re-cross the Murrumbidgee to one of the most unusual and historic houses in New South Wales – Bishops Lodge, a remarkable iron-clad residence innovatively designed to withstand Hay’s heat.  Constructed in 1889 as the official residence for the Anglican Bishop of Riverina, the lodge was home to three bishops before becoming a hostel for boys, and passing into private hands in 1946.  In 1985 the building was purchased by Council and the project to conserve and restore it commenced. Enjoy exploring the house before a relaxing morning tea in the 19th century gardens.

Back on our coach, we’ll pause at the inspiring Hay Water Tower Art. Envisaged as a lasting tribute to the many servicemen and women that served in World War II, five veterans were selected to represent a broad selection of the servicemen and women of Hay. You’ll have time to view the fascinating information boards before we depart for our next stop, the Dunera Museum, located in two restored railway carriages at Hay Railway Station. The impressive station was originally designed to serve what was going to be the main western line to Broken Hill. The line was never completed and instead the station became the terminus. 

The Dunera Museum recounts the WWII internment of over 6,000 POWs between 1940 and 1946, including the “Dunera Boys” – 1,984 German Jews and other refugees from Nazi-occupied Europe, who were the first internees of the British Government WWII policy, arriving in Hay in September 1940.  It’s a poignant look at a lesser-known chapter of Australian history.

Today’s lunch is befitting of our grand surroundings – a private affair on the original station platform that once saw thousands of people coming and going by train to stations far afield. Relax as you enjoy a meal using fresh local produce and wines. 

After your fabulous and exclusive lunch, our last stop for the day is the outstanding ‘Shear Outback’. For anyone that has grown up in, or visited sheep country, the vision of a corrugated iron woolshed shimmering in the haze of the Aussie sun is iconic. Here’s your chance to learn about the colourful characters, shearers, shedhands, sheep and dogs who work at ‘getting the wool’ off.  You’ll explore The Australian Shearers’ Hall of Fame, the Shear Outback Exhibition, and the historic Murray Downs Woolshed – complete with a live shearing demonstration.

After returning to our motel in the late afternoon, your evening is at leisure. The local pub is just up the street or the local ‘Bowlo’ is an easy 10 minute walk away for those wanting to have some dinner.

Overnight: Saltbush Motor Inn, Hay (B, L)

After breakfast and checkout, we’ll jump back on our private coach and head further west along the Sturt Highway, roughly following the Murrumbidgee across the western edges of the Hay Plains. As we roll along you will take in the spectacular sight of seeing nothing but saltbush – but keep an eye out as there’s more out here than you might suspect with visitors often sighting emus, kangaroos and teeming bird life. 

After passing through Balranald we’ll arrive at the tiny nearby outpost of Penarie and the Homebush Hotel, our venue for lunch today. A hotel has stood on this location on the road to Ivanhoe since 1878 and is the perfect setting for a pub lunch with the 360° views of the surrounding plains.

After lunch we’ll return to Balaranald and visit the historic 140-year-old Yanga Historic Homestead, a significant heritage site that offers a window into the pastoral and Aboriginal history of the Riverina region. Yanga Station, originally settled between 1842–1844 by explorer William Charles Wentworth, was one of the largest freehold pastoral properties in the Southern Hemisphere at its peak. Established in the 1830s and built around 1867–1872, it reflects the region’s wool industry boom and its cultural and environmental significance. The station leveraged the Murrumbidgee River for paddle steamer transport, shipping wool to markets via Echuca and beyond. The homestead, constructed between 1867–1872, was built using a unique Murray pine drop log construction with adzed or tenoned cypress logs, some retaining bark. There’ll be time to also visit the rose gardens, restored and maintained by local volunteers. 

Our journey then turns south returning to the NSW / Victoria border and the small town of Tooleybuc, where we’ll drop in for a drink or two at the Art Deco ‘Country Club Hotel’ before transferring the short distance to Piangil. Here, we’ll board our own private heritage railmotor – 58RM, known as the DERM (Diesel Electric Rail Motor) – for the journey to Swan Hill. Completed in January 1930 by the Newport Railway Workshops in Melbourne to an American design, the DERM spent its entire career on the Victorian Railways servicing lines throughout Melbourne and smaller branch lines further afield. Restored to immaculate condition and operated by a dedicated group of volunteers, it retains its traditional VR Blue and Gold livery with pride.  

Upon our arrival in Swan Hill, our motel is a short transfer from the station. Tonight we’ll gather for a jolly farewell dinner at a local restaurant to exchange a few laughs and share the memories we’ve made. 

Overnight: Comfort Inn Lady Augusta, Swan Hill (B, L, D)

After breakfast this morning we’ll return to the station, leave our luggage with our coach driver to travel separately to meet us in Bendigo, and board our waiting privately chartered DERM to follow the line south and away from the riverlands. You’ll have a great opportunity on this journey to learn all about the railmotor from the onboard volunteers or simply relax and watch the world go by.

We’ll need to pause at the township of Pyramid Hill to let the morning Swan Hill passenger service pass us, so there’ll be time to hop off and visit the local cafe or bakery for some morning tea and perhaps even pop into the local museum to view the fascinating collection of local items. Back on our railmotor we’ll continue south through the flat farming lands of central Victoria passing several small towns along the way as we head back to Bendigo.

We’ll arrive in Bendigo around midday and have time for a leg stretch before we take delivery of a delicious picnic lunch to enjoy onboard as we continue to Melbourne. While on the platform you might enjoy the curious if not envious glances of local commuters as they watch you climb back on to your own private train for the final run back to Melbourne, passing through rolling countryside, tunnels and the enormous Taradale Viaduct before the first sights of the Melbourne suburbs appear. 

Our tour ends when we disembark at Southern Cross Station and bid farewell until we meet somewhere else down the line.

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